Before Korean food was cool, Corey Lee was already redefining it

Corey Lee’s Culinary Journey: Redefining Korean Cuisine Before It Became Trendy

Before Korean food was cool Corey – When the Korean wave began to captivate global audiences, it was already reshaping the culinary world through the work of a single visionary. Corey Lee, now 48, has long stood at the forefront of this transformation, redefining Korean food well before it became a cultural phenomenon. His path to stardom began in a place where Korean cuisine wasn’t widely available: the suburbs of New Jersey. Growing up in a household where gochujang paste was a rare find and kimchi was not yet a celebrated dish in urban restaurants, Lee developed a unique perspective on his heritage. “In the early stages of my career, I never imagined serving kimchi in a fine dining setting,” he reflects. Today, however, Korean cuisine has taken center stage, with its global reach expanding rapidly through the influence of K-pop, K-beauty, and other South Korean exports.

A Fusion of Heritage and Innovation

Lee’s journey from a New Jersey suburb to Michelin-starred kitchens is a testament to his ability to merge tradition with modernity. Born in Seoul in 1977, he relocated to the United States with his family at the age of five, eventually settling in New York and later Tenafly. Raised by Korean parents who prioritized modest home cooking, his initial exposure to food was rooted in simplicity and family. But the spark for his career ignited in 1995 when he took a summer job at Blue Ribbon Brasserie in New York. “The moment I stepped into the kitchen, I was instantly drawn to its energy and creativity,” Lee recalls. This experience, far from being a temporary gig, became the foundation of his lifelong passion for cooking.

His early years in the culinary world were steeped in French techniques. After training in New York, Lee moved to London, where he honed his skills in some of the city’s most rigorous kitchens. It wasn’t long before he joined Thomas Keller’s team at The French Laundry in 2001. There, he rose through the ranks, becoming head chef when the restaurant earned three Michelin stars in 2007. Keller’s approach to infusing personal history into his menu left a lasting impression on Lee. “He managed to elevate the humble dishes from his childhood—like mac and cheese—into something extraordinary,” Lee explains. This philosophy would later guide his own culinary evolution, as he began to reimagine the flavors of his Korean roots.

Lee’s turning point came when he left the world of French fine dining to pursue a new vision. In 2010, he launched Benu, a contemporary East Asian restaurant in San Francisco that earned three Michelin stars. The menu at Benu is a celebration of the foods he grew up with, yet reimagined through a modern lens. “I wanted to honor the ingredients and traditions of my Korean heritage while embracing the precision of French cuisine,” he says. This blend of East Asian elements—such as Chinese 1,000-year-old eggs, Japanese sake, and Korean perilla—was combined with French techniques and California’s fresh produce, creating a distinct dining experience that resonated with both Korean and international audiences.

Roots in Family and Culture

Lee’s culinary philosophy is deeply influenced by his family’s traditions. His mother’s gentle yet flavorful home cooking style, paired with his grandmother’s strict Buddhist diet, shaped his understanding of balance and depth in taste. “My mother’s approach emphasized harmony, using herbs and fermented products to build umami without relying on pungent spices like garlic or onion,” he shares. These lessons became integral to his cooking, particularly in his ability to create dishes that feel both familiar and refined. “The idea of combining the comfort of home with the elegance of fine dining is something I’ve always sought to achieve,” he adds.

The influence of his family’s dietary principles extended beyond the kitchen. When Lee ventured to open his own restaurant, he aimed to recreate the essence of Korean cuisine in America, but with a contemporary twist. This effort was met with initial resistance from his parents, who had long viewed the kitchen as a less prestigious path. It took international acclaim and a feature in a Korean newspaper to convince his mother that cooking could be a legitimate profession. “That moment was a turning point for me and my family,” Lee notes. “It allowed me to pursue my dream without hesitation.”

Today, Lee’s work is part of a broader movement that has transformed Korean food into a global sensation. The Hallyu wave, which brought K-pop and K-beauty into the mainstream, also redefined how the world perceives Korean cuisine. With kimchi exports reaching record levels last year and Korean food companies expanding their overseas presence by nearly 25% since 2020, the cultural impact is undeniable. Yet Lee’s contribution goes beyond trends. His restaurants, including a Michelin-awarded Korean barbecue joint in San Francisco and a concept eatery within a Singaporean car factory, continue to push boundaries. “I’ve always believed that Korean food has a universal appeal, but it also needs to evolve to stay relevant,” he says.

From Suburb to Global Stage

Lee’s transition from suburban upbringing to global culinary influence is a story of resilience and reinvention. The early days in New Jersey were marked by a lack of Korean culinary options, which led him to experiment with the flavors he knew best. This experimentation eventually took him to the world of Michelin-starred restaurants, where he became the first Korean chef to earn three stars. His ability to blend East Asian traditions with French techniques has not only elevated Korean cuisine but also challenged the notion that fine dining must be exclusive to Western cuisines.

As the Korean wave continues to spread, Lee’s work remains a cornerstone of this cultural evolution. His collaboration with a popular kimchi brand to create gourmet versions of the staple dish highlights his commitment to making Korean flavors accessible and refined. “Kimchi is more than a side dish—it’s a symbol of our heritage and identity,” he explains. “By transforming it into a gourmet product, we can share its essence with a wider audience while respecting its roots.”

Lee’s journey from a New Jersey suburb to international acclaim underscores the power of cultural storytelling through food. His dishes are not just meals but narratives that bridge the past and present, the traditional and the avant-garde. Whether in a Michelin-starred restaurant or a casual eatery, his work continues to redefine what Korean cuisine can be. “I’ve always been driven by the desire to celebrate the things that shaped my childhood,” he says. “That’s why I focus on creating dishes that feel both authentic and innovative.”

As the world embraces Korean cuisine, Lee’s contributions serve as a reminder of its transformative potential. His path from a modest upbringing to global recognition is a testament to the idea that food can be a powerful medium for cultural exchange. By blending his Korean heritage with international techniques, he has not only redefined the boundaries of Korean cuisine but also ensured its place in the global dining scene. “I hope my work inspires others to explore their own culinary roots,” he adds. “Because when you bring your story to the table, you create something truly unique.”